First Impressions
Berto Juniperus Cask Finish is a conceptual triumph from Antica Distilleria Quaglia in Piedmont: Italian gin aged in small barrels made from juniper wood. The very tree that provided the primary botanical also provided the barrel. It is a closed loop of juniper — berry to spirit to wood — that doubles down on the ingredient that defines gin. Certified organic since 2018.
Tasting
Berto's Italian botanicals — juniper, wormwood, iris, rosemary, bay laurel, coriander, cassia, mint, liquorice — finished in juniper-wood barrels. The nose is deep piney spruce with citrus, bay laurel, and liquorice. On the palate at 43%, classic London Dry character amplified by the juniper-wood barrel, which adds warm vanilla-like sweetness and extra resinous pine. The finish is wormwood's bitter edge counterpointed by the barrel's sweetness.
The Bottom Line
Berto Juniperus earns an 8 — the idea of ageing gin in juniper-wood barrels is inspired, and the execution matches the concept. Every other barrel-aged gin uses oak, bourbon, or wine casks; this one uses the tree that defines gin itself. At £89 for 50cl, this is luxury Piedmont craft — but the conceptual integrity and the flavour justify the premium. Best neat, contemplating the closed circle of juniper from berry to barrel.