There's a reason Hernö Distillery has become one of the most talked-about names in craft gin, and their Old Tom expression is a masterclass in understanding what this historic category can be when treated with genuine respect. Old Tom sits in that fascinating middle ground between the dry, juniper-forward London Dry style and the rich sweetness of genever — and Hernö have navigated that tightrope with remarkable precision.
A Botanical Blend Built on Balance
What strikes me most about the botanical bill here is how thoughtfully it's been constructed. You've got your juniper foundation, of course — this is still very much a gin — but then meadowsweet steps in as a natural sweetening agent, and that's a detail worth pausing on. Rather than simply adding sugar to achieve the Old Tom's characteristic softness, the inclusion of meadowsweet suggests a more elegant, botanically-driven sweetness. It's the kind of decision that tells you a distiller is thinking carefully about every element in the recipe.
Alongside that, you have lingonberry bringing a subtle tartness, vanilla and cassia offering warm, spiced depth, and coriander and lemon peel providing the bright, citrus-lifted top notes that keep everything feeling fresh. Black pepper rounds things out with a gentle kick of heat — a botanical I always love seeing because it adds textural complexity without overwhelming the spirit.
Craftsmanship at 43%
At 43% ABV, this sits just above the minimum for gin and it's a smart choice for an Old Tom. That little extra proof gives the botanicals room to express themselves fully without the alcohol becoming assertive. It's bottled at a strength that respects the spirit's character — strong enough to carry weight in cocktails, gentle enough to sip with just a cube of ice and a moment of quiet appreciation.
Best Served
This is where an Old Tom truly earns its place on the back bar. My first recommendation would be a classic Tom Collins — the meadowsweet sweetness and lemon peel botanicals were practically designed for it. Build it long with fresh lemon juice, a light sugar syrup (go easy, the gin brings its own sweetness), good soda water, and a lemon wheel garnish. For something more spirit-forward, try it in a Martinez: two parts Hernö Old Tom, one part sweet vermouth, a barspoon of maraschino liqueur, and a dash of Angostura bitters, stirred over ice until properly cold and strained into a coupe. The vanilla and cassia notes will sing in that context. Even a simple G&T works beautifully — use a lighter tonic and garnish with a sprig of fresh thyme to complement the meadowsweet.
At £45, this is a gin that delivers genuine craft and complexity. Hernö have produced an Old Tom that educates as much as it delights — every sip reminds you why this category deserved its revival. A confident 9 out of 10.
