Hernö Distillery in northern Sweden has won more international gin awards per bottle produced than arguably any other distillery in the world. Their Old Tom expression takes an unusual approach to the style: rather than adding sugar to sweeten the gin, as is traditional, Hernö uses meadowsweet — a wild herb foraged from the forests surrounding the distillery — as its primary sweetening botanical. The result is an Old Tom with a more complex, herbal sweetness than sugar alone can provide.
Founded by Jon Hillgren in 2012, Hernö was Sweden's first dedicated gin distillery and remains one of Europe's most ambitious small-batch producers. Every botanical is carefully sourced — the juniper comes from the nearby Ångermanland coast, the meadowsweet is hand-foraged, and the lingonberries are wild-harvested from the boreal forest.
On the Nose
The nose is immediately distinctive. The meadowsweet sweetness is floral and honeyed — quite different from the clean sweetness of sugar, with an almost elderflower-like quality that adds aromatic complexity. Juniper is present and robust, more assertive than in many Old Toms, providing a firm herbal backbone. There is a subtle berry note from the lingonberry, and the vanilla (a listed botanical) adds a creamy richness that rounds the entire profile. The nose is genuinely beautiful — complex, layered, and inviting.
The Palate
On the palate, Hernö Old Tom is a revelation. The entry is soft and round, as one expects from an Old Tom, but the sweetness is more interesting than the style typically offers. The meadowsweet provides a honeyed, herbal quality that evolves as it crosses the palate — starting sweet, becoming slightly bitter, then returning to sweet on the finish. Juniper provides strong structural support throughout, ensuring the gin never loses its identity beneath the sweetness.
The lingonberry adds a tart, berry note on the mid-palate that provides essential acidity, while the vanilla smooths the transitions between flavour elements. At 43% ABV, the mouthfeel is rich and almost creamy — fuller than most Old Toms and substantially more textured than the style typically delivers.
The Finish
The finish is long and complex. The meadowsweet sweetness persists, gradually joined by a pleasant herbal bitterness that prevents any cloying quality. Juniper lingers firmly, and there is a final note of lingonberry tartness that lifts the ending. The finish has the kind of development you might expect from an aged spirit rather than a white one.
Cocktail Applications
This is, without question, the best Old Tom I have ever tasted in a Martinez. The meadowsweet's complexity plays against sweet vermouth in ways that sugar-sweetened Old Toms cannot match, and the result is a cocktail of extraordinary depth. In a Tom Collins, it produces a richer, more interesting drink than sugar-sweetened alternatives. And neat, on its own, it is one of the few Old Toms that genuinely rewards sipping.
Hernö Old Tom Gin demonstrates what happens when a talented distiller approaches a traditional style with genuine creativity. By replacing sugar with meadowsweet, Hillgren has created an Old Tom that honours the style's historical sweetness while adding layers of complexity that elevate it into something genuinely special. This is not just one of the best Old Toms on the market — it is one of the best gins, full stop.
