First Impressions
Knockeen Hills Heather Gin comes from Waterford in the south of Ireland, and it makes a claim that no other gin can: it is distilled from five-times-distilled Irish whey spirit. Not grain spirit, not grape spirit — whey, the protein-rich liquid left over from cheese-making. It is a base spirit that adds a subtle creaminess and roundness to the gin that grain-based alternatives cannot replicate. The whey spirit is then steeped with organic botanicals including wild heather for at least 24 hours before redistillation.
The IWSC Silver Medal winner (2009) is bottled at a muscular 47.3% — a very specific strength that suggests careful calibration rather than arbitrary choice.
The Distillery
Knockeen Hills Spirits operates in Waterford, and the whey spirit base is a genuine point of distinction. Whey spirit has been part of Irish distilling tradition for centuries, and the five-fold distillation produces an exceptionally clean, slightly sweet base that carries botanicals with particular elegance. The organic botanical bill is compact: juniper, coriander, angelica root, heather, and savory. The heather is wild, foraged from the hills that give the distillery its name, and it provides the floral, honeyed character that defines the gin. The 24-hour maceration allows the delicate heather flavour to express itself fully.
Tasting
The nose is intricately complex — it has been described as being like walking into a steamy hothouse full of exotic plants, and that image is apt. High-toned notes of dried flowers lead, with a firm core of juniper, coriander seed, and citrus zest providing structure. There are greener, earthier notes underneath — the angelica root and savory making their contributions — and the coriander comes through with warmth and spice. It is a nose that rewards multiple approaches; each sniff reveals something new.
On the palate, an initial fresh blast of juniper, garden mint, and green chilli is immediately engaging — bright, vivid, and slightly surprising. This quickly softens to more hay-like and slightly earthy characters that are prettied up by subtle floral heather notes. The mouthfeel is rich, round, and notably oily — the whey spirit base contributing a textural quality that is genuinely distinctive. The gin is quite sweet yet also dry, with citrus emerging before the heather creeps in with its gentle, honey-like floral presence. At 47.3%, there is ample body for all the botanical voices to be heard.
The finish is clean and dry, with plenty of pepper and citrus providing a crisp conclusion. It is refined and well-balanced, belying the 47.3% ABV — there is no burn, no harshness, just clean botanical expression and a gentle warmth. The whey spirit's smoothness carries through to the very end.
How to Drink It
The heather character makes this gin a natural partner for Fever-Tree Elderflower Tonic — the floral notes in both create a drink of wonderful aromatic harmony. Garnish with a sprig of thyme or, if available, a few heather flowers. The 47.3% strength means it holds its character against generous tonic ratios.
In a Martini, the whey spirit's creaminess and the heather's florals create a drink of genuine distinction. For an Irish twist, try it in a Gin & Honey — a measure of Knockeen Hills, a bar spoon of Irish honey, and a dash of lemon juice, stirred over ice.
The Bottom Line
Knockeen Hills Heather Gin earns a 7.5 for combining a genuinely unique base spirit with wild-foraged botanicals to create a gin of real character and Irish provenance. The whey spirit contributes a creaminess and roundness that distinguishes it from grain-based competitors, and the wild heather provides a delicate floral quality that is entirely its own. The 47.3% ABV gives it proper presence, and the organic production adds integrity. At around £35, it represents good value for a gin of this uniqueness. A bottle that proves Irish gin has its own story to tell — one that begins with whey and ends with wild heather.
