First Impressions
In 2015, the world was deep in its Ginaissance — new distilleries opening weekly, gin bars multiplying across London and Barcelona. Anand Virmani, a former Glenfiddich brand manager, and his wife Aparajita Ninan, an artist, were bar owners in Delhi watching from afar. India — the spice capital of the world, home to the botanicals that define gin — had no craft gin of its own. They founded Nao Spirits in 2017 with Vaibhav Singh, built a small distillery in Goa, and launched Hapusa — Sanskrit for juniper — using Himalayan juniper alongside turmeric, gondhoraj lime, raw mango, ginger, cardamom and almond. Diageo India acquired Nao Spirits in 2025.
Tasting
Eight botanicals distilled in a one-shot method on a still called Agatha. Himalayan juniper is sourced from forests at altitude, coriander seeds from local farms, gondhoraj limes from Bengal (a distant cousin of kaffir lime), turmeric and ginger from spice farms in Goa. The nose is pine forests and wildflowers — vibrant gondhoraj lime with bright pine and bold turmeric earthiness. On the palate, ginger and tangy mango pair with citrus, coriander and juniper bring heat, turmeric provides a warm golden backbone, spicy florals dance, cardamom finishes. The finish is long and delicately spiced with cardamom warmth and Himalayan juniper reasserting.
The Bottom Line
Hapusa earns an 8 and 91 points gold at the Bartender Spirits Awards for proving that India — which has supplied gin's botanicals for centuries — can make world-class gin of its own. The turmeric and gondhoraj lime combination is genuinely original, and the Himalayan juniper has a character distinct from Macedonian or Italian varieties. Diageo's acquisition confirms what the palate already knew: this is a gin with a future as bold as its botanicals. Best with Indian tonic and a slice of raw mango.
