First Impressions
Christian Jensen tasted vintage gins from London's lost distilleries and became obsessed with recreating their character. He found his answer in an 1840s distiller's notebook — a recipe that achieves the Old Tom flavour profile through a generous botanical bill rather than added sweetener. In 2013, Jensen's opened their own distillery under a railway arch in Bermondsey, joining the food and drink quarter that has made this corner of south London a pilgrimage site for gin lovers.
Tasting
The botanical recipe is closely guarded, but the glass reveals plenty. The nose is mint, eucalyptus, and pine needles with citrus. On the palate at 43%, slightly sweet liquorice and almond with orange peel brightness. Strong violet and lavender arrive mid-palate with a cereally background and sage. The key: this sweetness is natural, from the botanicals alone — no sugar is added. The finish is earthy and deep, the natural sweetness lingering without cloying.
The Bottom Line
Jensen's Old Tom earns an 8 — a true Old Tom gin in the tradition of the mid-to-late 1800s bartenders, unsweetened and earthy with deep flavour. This is what Tom Collins and Martinez cocktails were originally built with, and tasting it in those drinks is a revelation. At £37, you are buying access to a recipe from the golden age of gin, faithfully recreated by a man who tasted the originals. Essential for any serious cocktail bar.