First Impressions
The Eifel is a volcanic region in western Germany, its rich soils producing some of Europe's finest potatoes. Frederick the Great brought the potato to Germany in the 18th century; the Windspiel Manufaktur honours that heritage by using locally grown Eifel potatoes as their base spirit rather than grain. The name 'Windspiel' — German for greyhound — was also Frederick's favourite dog breed. Master distiller Holger Bolchers triple-distils the spirit: twice in a continuous still to purify, once in a smaller pot still to add character. The result is a base more characterful than grain but smooth enough to let the botanicals lead.
Tasting
Ten botanicals — juniper, lemon zest, ginger, coriander, cinnamon, lavender and four undisclosed — on a potato spirit base. The nose is rich juniper with lavender, well-balanced and flowery, the potato base adding subtle creamy richness. On the palate, fabulously clean and fresh: piney juniper, zesty lemon, lavender, coriander and cracked pepper. Very spicy with earthy coriander and ginger, bright lemon appearing mid-palate. The potato base creates a smooth, rounded mouthfeel. The finish is warm with ginger and cinnamon lingering, the potato base carrying the botanicals longer.
The Bottom Line
Windspiel earns a 7 for the potato-base innovation and genuine volcanic terroir. The Eifel soils grow potatoes with specific mineral content, and that translates into a gin with more body and creaminess than any grain-based competitor. At 47% it has real power behind the smoothness. Frederick the Great would approve of both the potato and the greyhound on the label.